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Are you looking for a face cream? Why not try AHA?

AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acids, a group of fruit acids i.e. Glycolic acid (acid from the grape) or Lactic acid (acid from the milk) etc. Glycolic acids are used for chemical, in cosmetic dermatology because in a concentration of say 70%, they remove the top 3 to 5 layers of skin and one uses this technique for skin rejuvenation or to remove pigmentation. In a much lower concentration, it still has this peeling effect but on a lower level.

So what happens when the skin is ageing? Basically, young skin regenerates quickly and all the skin layers get replaced in 3 weeks. As your skin ages, by about every decade the regeneration time doubles and your skin looks "older."

By using Alpha Hydroxy Acids and removing the top later of dead skin, it sends a s to your regenerating later to produce new skin. By making the regeneration time faster again your skin will look younger.

AHA's are acids as the name implies and they may irritate your skin. The principle is the highest concentration that your skin tolerates is the best. But you may have to “train” your skin to get used to it.

Most anti-wrinkle creams nowadays use AHA's but in low concentrations to avoid the initial irritation. My AHA-cream starts at 5% and goes up to 10%. Even 5% might be too strong in the beginning, so it's advisable to mix the AHA with a normal moisturizer and see what happens.

If the skin turns red and flaky, then one has to add more moisturizer next time. If nothing happens one can make the mixture a bit stronger. Usually one can use the cream as it comes out the pot after 2 - 4 weeks. Once the first 5% pot is finished, one can try 10% but again dilute first. Some people can never go up as high as 10% but most people can.

This cream can be applied all over, even close to the eyes. Remember when using face cream you should always use it on face, neck and chest! Also bear in mind AHA does not contain a sunscreen.

Anybody should apply a sunscreen of at least SP30 in the morning over the AHA

So the perfect routine would be:

In the evening wash your face with a neutral cleanser if you wear make up! If not water will do as well!       .
Then apply AHA.

Morning: wash face with water, apply AHA then sunscreen!
If you wear base/make-up it goes on top of the sunscreen.

This skincare is simple, not too expensive but it works and gives your skin all it needs.

Compiled by Dr. Dagmar Whitaker

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